What is Octocrylene?
Octocrylene is a synthetic chemical UV filter made from an ester of 2-ethylhexanol and a cyanoacrylate compound. It is produced entirely in the laboratory and does not occur naturally. Its oily texture also makes it useful as a stabiliser for other UV filters, such as avobenzone, in a formulation.
What does it do in the product?
Octocrylene absorbs ultraviolet radiation—primarily in the UVB range and the shorter end of UVA—and converts it to a small amount of heat, reducing the UV energy that reaches skin cells. It also stabilises photoinstable filters in the same formula, helping the overall sunscreen maintain its SPF over time. Its slight emollient character can improve the spreadability and feel of a product on skin.
Where you usually find it
- Sunscreen lotions and sprays
- Daily moisturisers with SPF
- Lip balms with sun protection
- After-sun products
- Foundation and tinted primers with SPF
Is Octocrylene something to worry about?
Octocrylene is absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream at measurable levels, a finding that prompted the FDA to request additional safety data before it could be classified as Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective. Some studies have found it accumulates in human breast milk and marine organisms, raising environmental questions. For most adults using sunscreen as directed, regulatory bodies have not concluded it causes harm, but the data gap is genuine and ongoing review is warranted.
Who should pay attention
- People with known contact or photocontact allergies to this ingredient or to benzophenones, as cross-reactions can occur
- Pregnant and breastfeeding individuals who prefer to minimise systemic absorption from cosmetics
- Parents applying sunscreen to infants and young children, given the higher surface-area-to-body-weight ratio in small children
- Coral reef environments and ecosystems—octocrylene has been detected in marine waters and organisms at concerning concentrations
- Anyone with a history of eczema or sensitive skin who experiences reactions to chemical UV filters
How is it regulated?
In the United States, the FDA regulates sunscreen ingredients as over-the-counter drug active ingredients. Octocrylene is currently permitted at up to 10% while the FDA awaits additional safety data requested in its 2019 proposed rulemaking; it has not yet been classified as safe and effective under the revised framework. In the European Union, the European Commission permits octocrylene in cosmetics at a maximum concentration of 10%, and EFSA-adjacent cosmetics authorities have continued to allow its use pending any new safety conclusions.
How to spot it on a label
On a sunscreen, octocrylene appears in the 'Active Ingredients' section in the United States, listed with its percentage concentration, which must be 10% or below. In some international products it may appear in the standard ingredients list under one of its chemical synonyms. If a label also lists avobenzone, octocrylene is likely there partly to stabilise it, so the two names often appear together.
What a cleaner swap looks like
Mineral UV filters—zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—sit on the skin surface rather than being absorbed, and both have received a 'safe and effective' determination from the FDA under the current framework. For those who dislike the white cast of mineral filters, newer non-nano formulations have improved cosmetic elegance considerably. Scanning the label with InZoRAH can help you compare the active ingredients in a product against these mineral alternatives before you buy.